Non-Traditional Moussaka

Adapted from The Way to Cook by Julia Child (Knopf, 1989)

This recipe comes from Julia Child’s The Way to Cook, which is a how-to-cook book more than a recipe book. It’s beautifully organized, and her moussaka is essentially a layered casserole of sautéed eggplant slices, a tomato-based meat sauce, and a cheese-enriched béchamel sauce. It’s satisfying and hearty and uses familiar ingredients in an elegant, slightly unexpected way.

Serves 4 to 6

Eggplant:

2 medium eggplants (about 1-1/2 pounds total)
Olive oil for frying
Salt

Trim and peel eggplants. Cut into 1/2-inch slices. Heat some olive oil in a large sauté pan. Working in batches, cook eggplant slices until golden brown on both sides. Salt lightly and set aside on paper towels to drain.

Meat Sauce:

2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup minced onion
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 large clove garlic, finely minced or grated
1-1/4 pounds ground beef
3/4 cup crushed canned Italian tomatoes
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano or thyme
Freshly ground pepper

Sauté the minced onion in the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet until soft. Add the salt, garlic, and ground beef. Cook until beef is browned and crumbly, breaking it up as it cooks.

Add crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, dried herbs, and pepper. Simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and is no longer watery.

Divide the meat mixture in half and set aside.

Cheese Béchamel Sauce:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups hot milk, divided (1-1/2 cups, then 1/2 cup)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground white pepper
Freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 cup grated Swiss cheese (Gruyère or Emmenthaler, or a mix)
2 egg yolks

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove the pan from the heat, and when the roux stops bubbling, add 1-1/2 cups of hot milk all at once, whisking steadily.

Return to medium heat and bring to a boil, whisking, until smooth and thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and a tiny pinch of nutmeg.

Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese until melted. Whisk in the egg yolks. Stir in the remaining 1/2 cup of milk a little at a time until the sauce is thick but pourable.

To Assemble:

Butter a medium gratin or baking dish. Arrange half of the eggplant slices in a single layer. Top with half of the meat sauce. Add a second layer of eggplant, then the rest of the meat sauce. Pour the cheese béchamel over the top and spread evenly.

Bake at 375°F for 30–35 minutes, until golden and bubbling. Let rest for at least 10 minutes before serving.