Hunkar Begendi - Turkish Eggplant Puree

Serves 4 to 6

This is a recipe for Hunkar Begendi, a Turkish eggplant purée that Joyce Goldstein served at her restaurant, Square One, in San Francisco as a bed for little meatballs in tomato sauce. I’ve served it that way, but it’s also delicious with lamb chops and makes a wonderful addition to a vegetable supper.

3 eggplants, about 1 pound each (not the small Japanese variety)
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

For the béchamel:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Wash but do not peel the eggplants. Prick them in a few places with a fork, then place them in a roasting pan and bake, turning occasionally, until very soft — about 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on your oven and the size of the eggplants.

Let cool until easy to handle. Cut in half and scoop the flesh into a colander. Let drain for about 15 minutes, then purée the flesh in a food processor.

While the eggplants are cooling, make the béchamel:

Warm the cream in the microwave. In a saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 4 minutes, until smooth and blended. Whisk in the warm cream and continue whisking until the sauce thickens, about 4 minutes. Add the salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

In a bowl, combine the eggplant purée, béchamel, and Parmesan. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Keep warm over hot water or reheat gently in the microwave just before serving.