Hollandaise Sauce

Adapted from Appetite by Nigel Slater Clarkson Potter, 2000)

If you’re not familiar with Nigel Slater, you should be. The book this recipe comes from, Appetite, is a one-of-a-kind book from a one-of-a-kind author. It’s about how to satisfy your cravings without slavishly following recipes. It’s a book about appetite—yours. And it’s a wonderful book to have, whether to cook from or simply to read.

This sauce, so right for spring asparagus when it's crying out for something rich and lemony, is truly glorious—even if it seems like the scariest one to make. But approach this task with infinite patience and an absence of trepidation. Remember, this is supposed to be fun. You’ll be well rewarded once you’ve mastered it.

The real key is to heat the sauce gently while whisking constantly—never letting it get too hot.

Nigel says you’ll need a round-bottomed, heatproof bowl and a saucepan for it to sit snugly on, along with a plump balloon whisk. I use a metal bowl over a 3-quart saucepan and a balloon whisk with a wooden handle.

It’s easier to separate eggs when they’re cold. (Best to whisk egg whites warm—but that’s advice for another day.)

Hollandaise Sauce

3 extra-large eggs
227g unsalted butter (2 sticks)
Half a lemon (or less if very juicy)
Salt

Separate the yolks from the whites and place the yolks in a heatproof bowl—metal or glass is fine.

Fill a saucepan about halfway with water and bring it to a moderate heat. Place the bowl over the pan, making sure it sits snugly and doesn’t touch the water. Add a splash of water to the yolks and stir gently for a few seconds.

Cut the butter into twelve pieces. Add four pieces to the yolks and whisk steadily until fully absorbed. Then slowly whisk in the rest of the butter, a few pieces at a time.

Still whisking, squeeze in the lemon juice. The sauce should turn a soft, pale yellow. Season with a little salt. (Nigel calls for white pepper, but I don’t use pepper at all. Your call.)

Remove the pan from the heat.

Nigel says the sauce will keep warm over the water for half an hour or so if you whisk it now and then. This is the point at which it may curdle. No one is immune. But as Nigel says, "It is worth the sweat." However, I have found that this sauce can be made in advance and kept warm in a Thermos. If you do that, give it a good whisk before serving.

"We are talking heaven here." Nigel Slater