Dell's Asparagus

Serves 4

One summer day in the seventies sitting at a swimming pool at Lake of the Ozarks, Dell McAbee told me how she cooked asparagus.

Asparagus is best trimmed by snapping the stalks where they naturally break, leaving behind the fibrous ends. Neatly trim the bottoms with a sharp knife. Lay the asparagus flat in a skillet or sauté pan and fill the pan with enough water to just cover the stalks. Salt the water.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 4 minutes, less if the asparagus is very thin—although fat asparagus is my favorite. The exact timing depends on how thick the stalks are. Test for doneness by poking a stalk with the tip of a sharp knife or a cake tester—or taste a stalk as you would with strands of spaghetti.

Note: Asparagus is delicious with hollandaise or chilled and served with vinaigrette. But it’s hard to beat it hot, tossed with butter or olive oil and sprinkled with flaky Maldon salt.