Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Beet Borscht Salad

Adapted from Fruit and Vegetable Stand by Barry Baluster and Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan

Serves 4–6 depending on whether you're using it as a salad or a condiment

I adapted this recipe from a 1987 edition of Fruit and Vegetable Stand by Barry Baluster. The first time I made it, I misread the recipe and did it differently—and I liked it so much I’ve been making it this way ever since. It doesn’t sound like much, but it’s very good and very pretty—definitely greater than the sum of its parts. I learned how to roast beets from Marcella Hazan.

4 to 6 medium red beets
Sour cream or Greek yogurt

Note: For the yogurt I use full-fat Fage; for the sour cream I used to use Breakstone, but now that Fage makes sour cream, it’s what I use.

Cut off the long stringy tops of the beets with kitchen shears, trim the root ends if they are “furry,” but leave the beets intact. Wash the beets well. Wrap the beets tightly in aluminum foil (I wrap them twice) and bake in a preheated 400°F oven until easily pierced with a metal cake tester right through the foil. This usually takes 1 hour.

When the cake tester slips easily through them, remove the beets from the oven. Open the foil carefully so you don’t burn yourself. Let the beets cool a little, then slip off the skins. It is easiest to do this under cold running water while they are still warm.

Slice, dice, or quarter the beets depending on your preference. I usually leave them in largish pieces. Chill.

Serve with dollops of sour cream on top of the beets. Alternatively, toss diced, chilled beets with sour cream.

Friday, October 27, 2017

Split Pea Soup

Adapted from David Lebovitz, Living the Sweet Life in Paris blog, March 15, 2013

For years I searched for the perfect split pea soup and finally struck gold with the one David Lebovitz published on his blog in 2013. With a few tweaks, his is the version I return to throughout the winter.

2 slices bacon (optional – if you skip the bacon, use 3 tablespoons olive oil instead of 2; that’s what I usually do)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and diced
3 carrots, peeled and diced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped—not too fine
About 1 tablespoon Better Than Bouillon Vegetable Base (or use chicken broth)
1 bay leaf (I use Morton & Bassett California Bay Leaves)
2 potatoes (russet or Yukon Gold), peeled and cubed (use one if it’s a large russet)
300g dried split peas, rinsed and checked for stones
7 to 8 cups water (start with 7)
Black pepper
Salt to taste, if needed
Sour cream for serving (I use Breakstone’s full fat)
Optional: homemade garlic croutons or toasted bread with a sliver of blue cheese (David’s idea)

If using bacon, cook it in a large soup pot (mine is 5 quarts) until crisp. Remove the bacon and set aside to crumble over the soup later. Add the olive oil to the pot and warm slightly. Add the onion and carrots and cook until the onion is softened. Stir in the garlic, bay leaf, potatoes, and split peas. Season generously with black pepper.

Add the water and bring to a boil. If using vegetable base, stir it in gradually and taste as you go to avoid oversalting.

Reduce the heat to a simmer and partially cover the pot with the lid ajar. Stir occasionally. If the soup thickens more than you like, add a little more water.

The soup is done when the peas and potatoes are soft—this usually takes about 45 minutes, but sometimes up to an hour. Remove the bay leaf. I serve the soup as is, but you can blend it with a stick blender if you prefer a smoother texture.

Top with sour cream and crumbled bacon, if using. Leftovers will need thinning with water.




Toast and Blue Cheese is a Good Complement to This Soup



My favorite pot - a 5-quart stainless-steel-lined copper Bourgeat