Sunday, October 25, 2009

Southern Fried Chicken

Very loosely adapted from Ad Hoc at Home by Thomas Keller with Michael Ruhlman and Susie Heller (Artisan, 2009)

This is a very loose adaptation of the fried chicken recipe in Ad Hoc at Home, a wonderful book by Thomas Keller with Michael Ruhlman and Susie Heller. I mention it here because I use some ideas from Keller that I would not have thought of on my own—specifically the particular seasoning blend and the use of a pot with high sides rather than a skillet. That change alone makes the recipe weeknight-manageable and cleanup far easier. I use my All-Clad 8-quart stock pot, which is about 6 inches deep; the chicken fries beautifully, the oil stays contained, and the pan is easy to clean. (Of course, be careful not to tip the pot—the oil is very hot.)

I use most of Keller’s seasonings, but I leave out the cayenne pepper because I don’t want the heat. I dip the chicken in buttermilk instead of using his brine, which he credits as the secret to the original. If you’re curious, you might try Keller’s full version from the book—Ad Hoc at Home is both beautiful and practical, with excellent recipes and instruction. It’s an approachable, generous book to read, cook from, and learn from.

I also recommend Michael Ruhlman’s own recipe for Pan-Fried Chicken Thighs, which makes great use of boneless, skinless thighs and is perfect for smaller meals.

Southern Fried Chicken
Very loosely adapted from Ad Hoc at Home by Thomas Keller with Michael Ruhlman and Susie Heller (Artisan, 2009)

Peanut or grapeseed oil for frying
1 quart buttermilk for dipping
Chicken thighs (bone-in, skin-on) and/or chicken drumsticks

For the coating, mix together:
6 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup garlic powder
1/4 cup onion powder
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sweet Hungarian paprika
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

If any skin is hanging off the chicken pieces, trim it a little. The skin will shrink and tighten as it cooks, and you want the pieces to be nicely covered.

Dip each piece of chicken in the seasoned flour, then in buttermilk, then again in the seasoned flour.

Fry the chicken in 2 inches of oil heated to 350°F in a deep, heavy pot until the pieces are deep golden brown—almost mahogany.


Thomas Keller's Fried Chicken


Michael Ruhlman's Pan Fried Chicken Thighs


Bone-in Chicken Pieces Frying in a Deep-sided Pot


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