Minestrone alla Romagnola

Adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan (Knopf, 1992)

Serves 6 to 8

Every fall, soups and stews seem to be at the top of everyone’s list after a summer of grilled foods and crisp salads. This is a delicious soup, great to have on hand—because even though it makes a lot, it improves with reheating. Marcella also has a variation served at room temperature, which is good when the weather is warm and the garden is flush with zucchini and green beans.

1 pound unpeeled zucchini, ends trimmed and diced
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons butter
1 cup onion, sliced very thin
1 cup diced carrots
1 cup diced celery
2 cups peeled, diced potatoes
1/4 pound fresh green beans, topped and cut into small pieces (about 4 to an inch)
3 cups shredded cabbage (savoy or regular green)
1-1/2 cups canned cannellini beans, drained
6 cups chicken stock
2/3 cup canned plum tomatoes with their juice
Salt
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Put the oil, butter, and sliced onion into an 8-quart stockpot. Turn the heat to medium-low and cook the onion until it softens and turns a pale gold. Do not let it color more than this.

The diced vegetables are to be added sequentially, not all at once. First, add the carrots and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring once or twice. Next, add the celery and do the same. Then the potatoes, then the green beans, and finally the zucchini.

Cook all together for a few minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the shredded cabbage and continue to cook for another 5 minutes.

Add the chicken stock and the tomatoes with their juice. Check for salt at this point. How much you need will depend on your stock, but be sparing—you can always add more later.

Stir thoroughly, cover the pot, and lower the heat so the soup simmers gently.

After 2-1/2 hours, add the drained cannellini beans. Cook for at least another 30 minutes. The soup should be thick, but if it gets too thick while cooking, it can be thinned with a little water.

When it’s done, turn off the heat and swirl in the grated cheese. Taste and correct for salt. Improves with reheating.

Rice-Filled Tomatoes

From Molly, Luisa, and Rachel

Rice-Filled Tomatoes
Adapted from Orangette, The Wednesday Chef, and Rachel Eats

2 main dish servings; 4 side dish servings

4 large tomatoes
1 small yellow onion, diced
Olive oil
1/3 cup Arborio rice
1/3 cup water
5 fresh basil leaves
Maldon Salt
Breadcrumbs
2 flaky potatoes, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds or, maybe even better, cut into chunks

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the tops off the tomatoes, and scoop out the flesh, seeds, and juice into a bowl.

Put the tomatoes into a lightly oiled 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Using kitchen shears, cut the flesh of the tomatoes directly in the bowl you have put them in.

Warm a glug of olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat; add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent. Add the rice to the pan, and continue to cook, stirring, for another minute or two. Then add all the contents of the bowl (tomato flesh, juice, and seeds—this looks like a lot, but don’t worry) as well as the water. Tear the basil leaves into pieces and add them too, along with a pinch or two of Maldon Salt squished by your fingertips.

Reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer for 10 minutes. Taste, and add more salt if necessary. The rice is not cooked through at this point. Spoon this mixture into the tomatoes, and sprinkle breadcrumbs lightly over the top of each tomato.

        If you happen to have some leftover baguette lying around, or some crusty white bread or something like that, it will take you about 5 minutes. Just cut off the crust, cut the soft center into cubes, and whirl the cubes in a food processor until they are reduced to fine crumbs. (Only process a couple of handfuls at a time, though, or the motor of the machine could overheat.)
        —Orangette

The first time I made this, I used plain, not seasoned, dried breadcrumbs, and they were fine, but I’ve made my own breadcrumbs too, and they are very good. Unless my bread has a thick crust, I don’t bother to cut it off.

Arrange the potato slices or chunks around the tomatoes in the pan. Drizzle olive oil over everything, and turn the potatoes over to make sure they are covered on both sides.

Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Make sure the potatoes are cooked through before you take the pan from the oven. Cool for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.