Fresh Pasta

Adapted from Beard on Pasta by James Beard (Knopf, 1983)

Fresh pasta is very different from dry pasta, and it isn’t automatically better for every recipe. A rule of thumb is that dried pasta works well with heavier sauces, and fresh with lighter ones—it’s like the wand choosing the wizard. The sauce dictates the pasta.

Having said that, I must confess that with the exception of filled pasta shapes and lasagna noodles, I am happy with excellent quality Italian dried pasta. I find it really does make a difference to use pasta from Italy made using bronze cutting dies. I use either Pasta Setaro, which I order from BuonItalia, or Faella, which I order from Gustiamo.

These instructions are specifically for using a food processor and a pasta roller machine or attachment.

Makes enough pasta for 4 generous servings when used for fettuccine or similar shapes.

1½ cups all-purpose, unbleached flour
Pinch of salt
2 whole large eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon oil

Add the flour and salt to the bowl of your food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process to blend, then add the eggs and oil through the feed tube. Continue to process until the dough begins to form a ball. If the dough is too sticky, add a tablespoon or two of flour. If it's too dry, add a tiny, tiny amount of water. Process until it forms a ball, but don’t keep processing once that happens.

Turn the dough out onto a floured board. Dust your hands with flour, and knead by hand for about 5 minutes. Make a ball and slightly flatten it. Wrap it in plastic wrap or place it in a Ziplock bag, and let it rest for at least 30 minutes—an hour is infinitely better. You can also refrigerate it overnight; just bring it back to room temperature before continuing with the rolling step.

Cut the dough into four equal pieces. Roll each piece through a pasta roller attachment (such as the one for a KitchenAid stand mixer or a hand-cranked Marcato Atlas). Begin at the widest setting and roll through once or twice. Lightly dust the length of dough with flour, then continue rolling down one setting at a time until the pasta is as thin as you like.

Keep the rolled sheets under kitchen towels as you go.

When all the pasta has been rolled through, it’s ready to use. Cut into desired shapes or use as sheets for lasagna or ravioli. Fresh pasta cooks almost instantly, so be careful not to overcook.

Notes
I’m posting this recipe mostly for myself. As I’ve said before, I started this blog so I could easily find my own recipes, and this one has never made it into my head.

I first made this pasta with Beverly Dana when she invited me to her house in Atlanta. I still use a Cuisinart to make the dough and roll it out on the KitchenAid roller attachment, which makes it easy. I NEVER clean the cylinders with water—just use a pastry brush to clean them as you turn the roller by hand.

Michael Ruhlman has a lovely section on pasta in his book From Scratch (Abrams, 2019), which I often give as a bridal shower present. (Twenty by Michael Ruhlman, Chronicle Books, 2010, is my go-to engagement gift.)