Sunday, May 25, 2014

Molly's Peaches in Wine

Adapted from Delancey by Molly Wizenberg

Copyright Orangette

Actually, to say that finding a pizza cook was more complicated is an understatement along the line of Michelle Obama has arms.
My Favorite Quote from Delancey by Molly Wizenberg                                                                                        
I don’t do critiques here.  Not of restaurants, not of recipes, and not of books.  A critique would mean I’m giving you my opinion about the good and the bad parts of something, and that’s not what I write about.  If I talk about it here, it means I like it, and sometimes it means I love it.

And that is the operational word about Molly Wizenberg’s second book, Delancey.


First off, I’ve been a dedicated reader of Molly’s blog, Orangette, for years.  Second, I thought her first book, A Homemade Life, was splendid.  And maybe it shouldn't be third, but when I head downtown to the Essex Street Market to buy cheese from the pristine selection at Saxelby Cheesemongers, I get off the subway at the station shared by Essex Street and Delancey, the street for which the restaurant, and by default, the book Delancey was named.

On the official publication date, May sixth, the book was delivered, but I didn’t get it.  I kept waiting for a knock on the door of my apartment, but it didn’t come, and when I checked the tracking link on Amazon for where my book was, I found out it had been delivered to a different address – through my own fault in the pre-ordering process.


I couldn’t stand it anymore, so as I was getting ready to head off to bed, I downloaded the book and fell asleep wearing my glasses and holding my Kindle with Delancey on the screen.

I read it at every available moment until I finished it, and I have one thing to say:

Just read it.

Then make something from it.

Since my favorite dessert is Strawberries with Vanilla Ice Cream, I figured something just as simple might be the ticket.  I can’t always find good stone fruit in New York City – rarely local and certainly not at this time of year.  But last week the peaches at Fairway were so fragrant you could smell them from across the room, and they beckoned to me, reminding me of summer vacations spent at Sea Island, Georgia, buying peaches at the farmers’ market on St. Simon’s so this is what I chose.

If you like sangria, you will like this.  It is rather more of an idea than an actual recipe. Molly was inspired by David Tanis’s A Platter of Figs.  The deliciousness of this dessert will depend on how good the fruit is.

Molly's Peaches in Wine
Adapted from Delancey by Molly Wizenberg

For four to six people take 4 medium sized ripe peaches – the best you can find (and Molly says nectarines are delicious this way too) – and rinse them, gently pat them dry, then cut into thin slices.  Molly says she likes to get 12 to 16 slices per peach, which, obviously, will depend on the size of the peaches you start out with.

Put the slices into a bowl and add 2 tablespoons of sugar.  Mix gently, and add 2 cups of wine – Molly suggests a crisp dry white or rosé.  I used a Grüner Veltliner, which is a lovely white wine from Austria that I generally keep on hand because it is so food-friendly and goes especially well with the things I like to make.  Then taste and add more sugar if you want it sweeter; Molly generally likes it made with 2 tablespoons for herself and up for 4 when making it for Brandon since he likes it sweeter than she does.  The amount of sugar will, of course, depend on your own preference, the sweetness of the fruit, and the wine you are using.  (I used three tablespoons for two peaches.)  If I had superfine sugar in the pantry, I would use it here.

Put the sliced fruit and the wine in a covered container.  (I made it with 2 peaches so a recycled jam jar was perfect.  Obviously, a French jelly jar with a red lid would work well too.)  Chill for 6 and up to 24 hours – 12 to 24 is probably best. 

Serve cold in squat glasses that you can easily get a spoon into.  Don’t forget to drink any liquid left in the glass.

This recipe can be increased or decreased as you wish, using sugar to taste and planning on using about ½ glass of wine per peach.

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